In many respects wine production is a labour of love. Firmly in the UB40 camp. So, it warms the heart when you actually meet a couple that have embodied that sentiment for many a decade. Since the 1960s in fact, when Emilio Oliveri and Maria Luisa made their first wine together from a tiny two hectares of land. Now in their 80s, the couple are still producing two deeply satisfying examples of Dolcetto and Barbera that we have come across in Piemonte. With that in mind, let's wheel out one of UB40's most iconic hits. C'mon, you know the one...
La Borgatta has actually been in Maria's family since the mid 1940s, with the majority of vineyards planted by her father towards the end of that decade. Today, the vineyard has halved in size, now representing a tiny two hectares. A conscious decision by the couple to reduce the workload, given they no longer have the vigour of youth on their side. Emilio and Maria work everything by hand, and do so without helping hands from others! A testament to a winemaking love affair. In the absence of modern technology, much is done by gut feel and a commitment to preserve and protect the lands of which they farm. Unfazed by new trends, they are advocates of working responsibly with their vines.
They have also maintained commitment to working with Dolcetto and Barbera. Resisting any temptation to pivot towards Nebbiolo, despite its riches. Both varieties are produced in the exact same way, although the wines have distinct differences. In the cellar, the grapes are destemmed, and the wines ferment naturally in the same concrete vats that have been used since the 1940s. After fermentation, they press, and the wine is racked into steel tanks where it stays on the lees for one year or so, after which they bottle the wine. They typically add a very low amount of sulphites just before fermentation, and they never add any after that. The couple choose to the age the wines for between three and five years in bottle, although the Dolcetto is typically ready after a year or two. Whilst they rarely release the Barbera before it has aged for five years.
Both wines come across rustic and complex. They feel old school, unlike the wave of modern wines produced in the region. Proper stuff. Timeless and classically made. They are a representation of tradition, of old methods, and of pure dedication. The fruit is vibrant, yet it also has tertiary aromas (mushrooms, leather etc) and character that you might expect from in and around Barolo. Above all else, these wines are infused with the energy from two souls that want to bring joy to those who drink them. Cin cin.
