Located on the West Coast of the island of Sicily, Marsala has historically been known for producing fortified (sweet) and rather cheap table wines. Both types of produce which we are happy to give a miss. However, times are changing, and thanks to the efforts of big-hitting names Donnafugata and Planeta, the region - along with much of Sicily by this point - has moved into the limelight. Largely this is due to the combination of a focus on producing more natural wines and winemakers themselves leaning into native varieties such as Grillo, Catarratto and Zibbibo.
Excitingly, this pursuit of originality is taken a step further by artisan Nino Barraco with his single vineyard wines. Being closer to North Africa than mainland Italy, growing conditions are tough going. Yet this hasn't stopped Nino's march towards quality as he strives to bring the land of Marsala to the kitchen table. Having taken over his family's vineyards in 2004, his efforts are rightly lauded for doing things differently. With considerable growth in the estate's parcel size during the past two decades, alongside a commitment to work organically and play a minimal hand in guiding the wine from vineyard to glass, there is much to like of the quietly understated Italian.
The majority of his wines are bottled a year after harvest, which means we don't have to wait too long for stocks to be replenished! These are wines that drink so well in youth. Displaying characteristics befitting of grapes grown in the sun and by the sea, these wines are a perfect expression of where they originate, but also the new age winemaking to be found in this part of Sicily. Intense, lively and salty. Bravo!
