Translated as "The farm of 9 paths", we can't help but be enamoured with the sense of poetry and sincerity of this winery, run by Jeanne Gaston-Breton. High into the hills above Reichsfeld, it feels as though you are entering a different kind of Alsace. One that is very, very different to what many of us are familiar.
This is an amazing spot for winemaking, where nature and tranquility meet, far from the monoculture concerns that blight the region's famous wine villages. Surrounded by forest, meadows and animals, the small hamlet of Taubental sits about four hundred metres above sea level in the shadow of the Vosges. Here, the landscape offers genuine, fresh air.
Jeanne began caring for her family’s farm in 2017 and immediately undertook the conversion of their seven hectares of vines to organic farming and later, biodynamics. She works alongside her mother in the vines, where they focus on soil health and harnessing the incredible biodiversity present in this pocket of Alsace. Their old vines of indigenous varietals are planted over three distinct terroirs, consisting of clay & limestone, sandstone of volcanic origin, and schist (hard slate). This results in some contrasting layers of concentration, aromas and flavours.
Half of the grapes they grow are sold to winemaking friends, but in each of the more recent few years, Jeanne has begun saving a little more from each harvest for herself. In her tiny cellar (it really is tiny!), she displays a great sensibility and real lightness of touch, working with the simplest of tools and nothing but gravity to produce delicate and elegant wines which carry a wonderful sense of place. In the cellar, it is all kept to a minimum, with stainless steel the vessel of choice.
Having tasted these wines for the first time last year, we were blown away by the tension, minerality and texture. Notably from her white wines. We were even converted to not only drink, but actually enjoy, the expressions of Alsace Reezling (yes, we know how it should be spelt!). No mean feat. Jeanne, you have our attention, and not just because your bottle labels are very fun and look cool. Good skillz.
